The Squamish Apron
Classic corner crack climbing on Diedre (5.8) on the apron, en route to Broadway Ledge.
Excellent climbing in morning shade on Snake 5.9
The Apron of the chief has a wide variety of multi-pitch rock climbs of high quality most of which are great for beginners! The apron is a fan of granite that starts a short 100m walk from the road. There are many routes to choose from most of which are 5-8 rope lengths long. Here you will find the classic climbs Diedre 5.8, Banana Peel 5.8, Calculus Crack 5.8, Long Time No See 5.9, Snake 5.9, St. Vitus Dance 5.9, and Rock On 5.10a just to name a few! All of these climbs can be done on their own finishing at the beautiful Broadway or Memorial Ledge, or any of these routes can be linked into climbs above the apron finishing on the first or second summits of the Chief. From the top of these climbs descent is straightforward or you can continue up the Ultimate Everything (5.10b) or the Squamish Buttress (5.9 or 5.10c).
First Summit - Squamish Buttress or Butt Face
Climbing on the Squamish Butt Face 5.9
The Squamish Buttress is a great climb directly above the apron, with two distinct options: the easier option affectionately known as the “Butt Face” (5.9) or the classic Buttress 5.10c finger crack option. These climbs share the first few pitches and both are of high quality. This climb dries fast, has amazing views, and tops out the first summit of the Chief after 12 pitches of fun and exciting climbing. Most parties climb one of the many great routes on the apron to access these climbs. This route is the perfect choice for both beginners and experienced climbers alike to get a feel for Squamish multipitch climbing and get to summit the iconic Stawamus Chief.
Boomstick Crack on the upper Apron, 5.6
The Squamish Buttress, 5.10c crux pitch
The Upper Black Dyke
The Final Pitch Of The Upper Black Dyke 5.10b, Airy, Exposed and Excellent!
The Black Dyke is a unique vertical band of rock that runs from top to bottom of The Chief. To get to the upper Black Dyke we can hike or climb one of the lower routes on the chief, such as Bulletheads East or the Grand Wall, then do a short hike and an exciting ledge traverse to the base of this climb. Graded 5.10b the climbing is mostly face climbing instead of crack climbing which makes these pitches attainable for climbers who have done mostly gym climbing and are just getting into outdoor climbing. Join us for some of the most scenic climbing in Squamish.
Angel’s Crest
Topping out the difficulties of the lower pitches
Climbing the super cool Acrophobe Towers
Angel’s Crest in an incredible prow of rock that ascends over some towers known as the Acrophobe Towers and directly up to the central summit. It features 13 pitches of sustained and very high quality climbing up to 5.10b, a bigger day but very achievable for those with some previous multipitch experience and good fitness. It is one of the best multipitch 5.10 routes anywhere! The lower pitches feature the Angel’s Crack (5.10a) an outstanding finger crack, followed by a short bolted pitch of 5.10b face climbing. Most of the rest of the route is 5.9 or lower but all of it is high quality climbing, with the incredible Acrophobe Towers traverse pitch only an airy 5.4. The position is stunning throughout the day! The second-last pitch on the route is another spectacular 5.10a, making for a total of 3 pitches of 5.10 out of 13. Topping out the center summit is nice as it is higher and quieter than the first summit.
The scenic Whaleback arete above the Acrophobe Towers
Climbing the final 5.10a pitch close to the summit!
Other Options: There are lots!!
There are a great many other options for incredible multipitch climbs in and around Squamish and new routes are going up every year, check out these photos below for other great options to ask your guide about! Your guide will be sure to ask about your goals and experience level and we always do our very best to go for climbs that are both challenging and enjoyable!
